Strasbourg

I wanted to visit Strasbourg because it is the second home of the European Union institutions, and also because of its unique history shaped alternately by French and German occupation over the centuries.

I rented a bike at the train station. This is something you can do in many European cities, as part of efforts to provide seamless car-free mobility options. In some cases, like Velocation in Strasbourg, the service is operated by a non-profit group. I paid 6 Euro for a half-day rental. (More information about governmental mobility management efforts and case studies are available here.)

I and was instantly charmed by the lovely old city center. It is an island accessed by bridges, with the river always just out of sight. There are narrow streets lined with medieval German timber-and-plaster buildings, which open into grand squares lined by French baroque buildings. The bike system is excellent, with separated bike paths and crossings of consistent quality, and good directional signage.

As for the EU, whereas in Brussels the Parliament and Ministry offices are located in the heart of the city, I found that in Strasbourg they are appended uncomfortably to the outer edge of the city. The institutional complex is somewhat interspersed with the pre-existing suburban fabric, but mainly it is an architectural park. Each building – the European Council, the Court of Human Rights, the Agora – is a flashy modern masterpiece, standing like a trophy along Boulevard d’Europe. There are four lanes of traffic, but there is excellent bus, tram and bike access, with ample bike parking in front of each building.

I tried to take a tour of the European Council building, but it is locked up like a fortress. I and other clueless, hovering tourists were informed by the security guard through his glass cubicle that you need an appointment for a tour, which may only be made by calling an office somewhere else. A nice German couple made the phone call and expressed frustration that the EU institutions, already so far removed from the citizenry, were so unwelcoming to visitors. Very few Europeans can name their Member of European Parliament (MEP), and experiences like this only serve to reinforce the ivory tower image.

I only regret that I didn’t have enough time in Strasbourg to sample some of the Alsace culture, like the food and conversation. There was a European food festival on in one of the squares, so I had a Romanian cabbage roll thingie for lunch.